The sight right outside our house! It was a beautiful sunny day, extremely humid type heat though- Our host informed us that this is “winter” for them and this weather is “fresh”. Haha - example of such is that she is wearing jeans, and he is wearing a T-shirt! I am over here glistening head to toe. After resting up a bit from our 8 hour bus ride (from Mexico through Belize) we finally headed out around 8 pm to get something to eat. There are a lot of good reviews for the restaurants around here, and some are just around the corner from us!
After reading about places and a positive recommendation from our host we decide to try La Villa del Chef — The food that I saw on tables walking in was enough to confirm I needed to eat here. There were also two fluffy cats lounging about which was a little distraction in the heat.
The menu wasn’t large, but it offered a few salads, pastas, burgers, and a special white fish only available on this island. We went with the Pasta Altiplano and Chef’s Chicken Burrito! My pasta had a smoked tomato sauce, which was really lovely. Nothing like a typical marinara or anything from a bottle. I could clearly taste fresh tomato, but it was seasoned lightly which went really well with the more savory and salty chicken. The burrito was also tasty, the highlight being fresh ingredients and it’s large portion size. I would definitely go back, there were some monster salads I might be brave enough to try…
After our check was brought out, the waiter pointed to these little gals saying they were for us. From my seat I thought they were fancy toothpicks but they are called Muñecas quitapenas aka worry dolls that are used to remove worries. According to their stories, the doll is supposed to worry in your place, and thus if you lose your doll it has run away with your woes.
Of course, it’s seeming like our mission- Try ice cream in every country and multiple times to be sure… This is Sarita which is basically the Baskin Robbins of Guatemala! We kept it simple and got a Piña Colada ice cream cone. 1. The flavor was balanced. Not super sweet or extremely pineapple-y. 2. She used some method that got ice cream all the way down into the cone. I did not get any empty cone at the bottom! So good.
Not for the feint of heart.
An assault on all the senses at once.
SIGHT
The most vibrant streets: pastel 17th and 18th century architecture, rainbow assorted shades of classic old American cars, the neon/floral print mix and match fashions of the local Cubans and tourists alike are dazzling. However, everything is in ruin and not in any state of repair— Walls crumbling, layers of paint, graffiti, dirt and grime on every surface. Trees grow big and tall on the side of buildings, one thing that has weathered time better here. Bars on windows, artistic iron wrought gates are on almost every home. Stray dogs and cats run around licking trash for snack while they wait for scraps from the local butcher. Clothes strung up on balconies, colorful pantalones flapping in the wind.
SOUND
As we head down three flights of stairs the din grows louder. You’d think it was a cliché but as soon as the heavy door was parted from its latch, and we’ve just barely stepped outside, a blasting of live Cuban-Caribbean music makes it almost impossible to converse. Add the large trucks zooming by, pedicabs ringing their bells simultaneously yelling, “Taxi? Taxi!” toward us while we try to avoid them. Different music is being played from a shoulder boombox or performed on every corner, whether from within a restaurant or street urchin hoping to earn some pesos. Someone on the 3rd floor is yelling at a friend on the street. The guy in the 2nd floor restaurant is beckoning us up to eat. A man is calling to a stray dog down the road who is running further away. Kids are playing or screaming. Near the main square, a man in a typical black and white waiters outfit stands in the doorway asking in Spanish if we want cigars. It is starting to rain: no. Everybody seems to know everybody.
SMELL
The streets are busy. Rotting garbage from remains thrown carelessly on the ground, next to feces (stray dog, cat, human?) mix with open sewer lines, baked dumpsters overflowing everywhere. Males do not use restrooms— they just pick any which side of the street and go. Cheap ladies fragrance is sometimes wafted into the mix, a welcome scent from the general leaded gasoline fumes, black plumes pouring out of all the motor vehicles. Cigar smoke lingers, locals and even those working have them lit throughout the day. Pockets of lovely food smells cooking from cafeteria restaurant institutions make for a treat. Little peso pizzas are folded like sandwiches in hand of many locals going about their day… Tempting.
TOUCH
Rubble and uneven streets leave the ankles tested; not being able to walk on one side of the other, sidewalk or road because the holes where the “street” has been ripped up, dug into and never put back is unavoidable. We left our first home for three days, came back and it was hardly recognizable. Sidewalk: gone. Road: also gone a few feet. Two foot deep holes for 30 feet along the path we used to walk. There are also too many piles of crap or large dirty puddles of stagnant water that are a hypochondriacs nightmare. Also: crazy drivers and swaying walkers. The potholes are so large Im surprised cars aren’t stuck in them. If you aren’t paying attention there might be a three foot drop next to a so called sidewalk. Humidity is a sneak that leaves your skin sticky and hair frizzed. Mosquitos here are another breed— Their bite a lasting remark for days to come.
TASTE
Nothing here is easy to come by. Food being rationed, is an obvious reason. The fare doesn’t taste bad, it is very simple and basic in composition. Jamon. HAM HAM and more HAM. Bread. Flavors are light, almost bland for my palette that likes a spicy factor. Our host graciously made us an “omelette” which was nothing more than a scrambled egg folded in half, no seasonings or additions. Before we left on the trip my bf had to wonder if my spicy addiction had gone too far. Now he sees why I brought the hot sauce and chili pepper packets! Little did I know that I would in hindsight be thankful for a plain egg… Good protein is hard to come by. Our first mojito was also an experience: it was straight rum with a mint twig dashed in it. I watched the “bartender” pour in horror. Most street snacks and menu items are fried— churros, croquettes, tostones, plantains, sugared chips, corn fritters etc. Things that are somewhat available here in grocery “mercados” include: bread, ham, crackers, Kool Aid, Havana Gold rum, unpasteurized dairy products and long lines. I’m not leaving anything out either, not sure how people live off of these items. No spices, sugar, cereal, chips, frozen aisle… These shops are smaller than the average American’s dining room. I didn’t come here for the food but one pleasant surprise was the Chocolate Museum bonbons, which was probably the closest to normal thing I’ve eaten here. One was milk chocolate in the shape of a cigar, a mint liqueur filled milk chocolate, and a praline cinnamon clove mix covered in bittersweet chocolate. Mmmm.
Imagine you have just landed in Havana— an hour later than scheduled, pissed off an immigrations officer, managed to find your way out of the airport, exchanged some money (although the teller has to recount a hundred dollar bill and 3 twenties about a thousand times) and thankfully run into your taxi driver who was late as well. It takes a half hour to get to your residence because the driver sees his “boss” who must be picked up and dropped off in some random spot on the side of the road. The airport is actually in the middle of nowhere so it takes and a bit to get home— once arrived you are given the rundown and settle in. The host hands you a keyring with 6 keys. One for the door to get into the “complex”, one for the gate into two possible apartments, one for the iron gate before the front door, the key for the heavy front door, the key for your bedroom door and yet another key for the closet in the bedroom. Is this Cuba or Fort Knox.
By now you are very hungry and thirsty. Starving, perhaps. You get to the market and find out they have no water because it has already sold out for the day. Tap water is totally unsuitable for drinking. You decide to look around down the street for more options. Most mercados are already closed as it is a pretty late hour. You pass by many restaurants, so busy and bustling— live music draws all the tourists leaving hardly any standing room. A few restaurants are open and actually have seating. After reading menus posted outside you finally come to a consensus of where first to try. When you find your table, it takes ten minutes before anyone comes to give you a menu. Once you have your menu it takes another fifteen to twenty minutes for anyone to come back to take your order, even after trying to wave someone down and catch their attention. Now you’ve finally decided on some basic (everything is basic) chicken dish, but after placing the order are told that nothing on the menu is left (sold out due to rations being all used up). But hold on, the last two things on the menu are available: a seafood paella and lobster.
…
These are notoriously the most expensive, meats in general in Cuba… but you also want to dodge food poisoning. This information would have been nice to know before sitting down and wasting 45 minutes all the while starving. SO you decide to do the only natural thing which is to order drinks. The waiter then informs that you must be seated at the bar. The table is right next to the bar and no one under 25 is even in the restaurant as it is 11 pm, and in Cuba no one cares what age you are drinking anyways… but okay. Move to the empty bar and wait ten minutes for the somehow busy bartender to notice. We place an order for a beer and a mojito. I’m not sure how time consuming it is to grab a beer and a clean glass but it must be on the upside of fifteen minutes. The mojito was nothing more than a squirt of lime juice, cup 98% full with rum and a mint twig thrown in. Not exactly what was imagined. Good thing it was only $1.50 as it was not exactly palatable.
Looking around you see waiters, employees of this restaurant standing around doing a whole lot of nothing. You’d imagine that if the restaurant was concerned about profits they would at least be utilizing the oodles of people with no real job description and be prompt in delivering the check. It doesn’t even need any preparation and they already have it from the paper they took your order on. You want to leave and think you can get the hell out of there ASAP, but alas, another wrong assumption. The bartender is too busy (???), and three non waiter waiters sitting at the end of the bar near what appears to be a register just chatting and looking around but avoiding actually doing anything. The two waiters who take orders and deliver food are walking around so fast you can’t even catch their eye. So going along with the theme of the night, and now I know, Cuba in general— It takes twenty minutes to get your check. Tempting to dine and dash, or leave money on the counter and dash but you don’t know what kind of impression that may have— being completely new to this country.
Somehow it’s close to midnight now so you decide to find your way back to the apartment. Still starving you eat some health bars you brought from America; on the way over they got smashed into tiny granola bits so you scoop it directly out of a gallon sized ziplock (that was fun for customs) with a titanium spork into your mouth. That’s all the food you have left because the fine gents of customs were so suspicious of your Costco Korean beef jerky that they threw it away.
Going to be traveling for awhile and using just a backpack to hold everything.
Daunting, DAUNTING task to figure out how to pack.
The longest I’ve been away internationally has been about 4 months,
in which I had a rolly duffle bag in camo print and one suitcase (or was it two?)
Pretty sure it was just one. Heehee.
Here is the list for my backpack so far:
Clothing
1. Denim skinny Joe’s jeans
2. Black TopShop knee rip skinny jeans
3. Black leggings
4. Bathing suit
5. Underwear (x7)
6. Socks (x3)
7. L/S Black Smartwool top
8. Marmot jacket
9. Accessories/Sunglasses
10. UV Protective Hat
11. Denim shorts
12. Camisole
13. Bra/Sports Bra for exercise
14. Tops x3
1. Bar body soap
2. Shampoo 3ml
3. Clinique Mild face soap bar
4. Makeup
5. Bath scrubby
6. First Aid kit
7. Hair ties
8. Toothbrush/toothpaste
9. Floss/mouthwash
10. Q-tips
11. Lotion/Aquaphor
12. Deodorant
13. Shower cap
14. Chapstick
Misc
1. Notebook/watercolors/pen/pencil
2. Deck of cards
3. Duct tape
4. SPORK
5. Mini sewing kit
6. Day bag (purse for me)
7. Shammy towel
I will go into specifics about which backpacks I am trying out for my petite frame
and what products I am specifically using on my YouTube channel. Coming soon!
Lost in Portland. Okay, not really lost, just unable to find the Sok Sab Bai restaurant. The last time I was here [daytime], it wasn’t yet open. This time after circling the block, in car and on foot we still couldn’t locate the place, (Google maps said we’d arrived!). Found Fifty Licks [ice cream] along the way. After walking up to a deserted house-like building there was the answer: It was closed. First it was the wrong time, now apparently the wrong day, seems like Sok Sab is only open 3 days a week. Still not entirely sure that’s correct. TBA* Ah, maybe the third time’s a charm.
Where to next? It was either Cambodian or pizza, so it was off to Ken’s Artisan Pizza. I had heard it was comparable and even better than Asholl’s Pizza (less wait time/pizza under $20/not so pretentious). The place was packed but cozy. We got there a bit late by my standards (obviously this wasn’t the first plan) so unfortunately a wait for seating was involved. The waiters happily obliged patrons who wanted to drink some wine while standing but I chose to stare at those already eating what looked to be such delicious pies. This place might be more accommodating to larger parties, or it was just super busy and hard to seat just two. Service seemed a little inefficient, but I could hardly care once we got to eating.
Appetizer: I’m always looking for delicious veggie options and this definitely brought something more creative to the menu. Three different offerings on the wood oven roasted vegetable plate. Two of them tied for my favorite, and the last one had flavors that I had never considered together, and am still not sure about.
{counterclockwise from top}
1. Sweet potato/yam, kale and ricotta in a red pepper sauce cooked to perfection
2. Tender juicy brussel sprouts, onion/shallots, breadcrumbs on top
3. Savory spiced pear and carrot, (cumin/corriander were two main spices on them)
Soppressata aka the “tomato sauce mozzarella basil and spicy Calabrese”. Spicy anything catches my eye, but I’ve also had a few Soppressatas to compare to.
Is this place worth the hype? The pizza breakdown- Toppings: generous salami and fresh aromatic herbs, authentic amount of cheese. Marinara base: Average, good but nothing spectacular; not a lot to judge on as there isn’t a crazy amount sloshed on. Crust: Chewy blistered goodness all around, thin Italian style similar to what I had in Florence!
Gotta love a place that offers chili pepper flakes… even if they aren’t actually “hot”-