Black Canyon to Sutton Mtn. & the Painted Hills

We heard about an easy hike about 5 miles in total up to Sutton Mountain — It’s walking on an old “Jeep trail” that is fairly flat and calm. After driving through Mitchell and stopping for some gas we were pretty quickly at the parking spot. We saw some other hikers (they were decked out with backpacks and hiking poles — from Bend) who were also planning on hiking to the top of Sutton Mountain. They weren’t exactly sure which way the trails were either and knew that it was kind of something you’d find and figure out along the way. We started off ahead of them but quickly saw there was no path really and let them take the lead so we could follow. Our Elsa decided to hurry up alongside them but once we got her back we actually lost sight of them and had no idea which way to go. We picked a mountaintop and headed in that direction, which was a lot of fun. Steep, uphill fun!

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WE MADE IT! On the way down I saw a slithering snake and I didn’t look long enough to figure out what kind it was but I did let out a scream. Shortly after that Kenny saw a coiled rattlesnake which we made sure to avoid with the doggy. The grass was very tall so it was hard to see exactly what was lurking. Thankfully we made it down pretty easily and with no more snake sightings despite how brushy and steep it was!

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We passed this on the way to John Day River and the Painted Hills… Snake #3. Thankfully this one was dead —

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We happened to go out on such a nice day — The sun was shining with clear skies but it wasn’t too hot! Thankfully this is May and not quite summer so it was perfectly picturesque. There were definitely some tourists out, so many in contrast to where we had just hiked from which was basically deserted.

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After we returned home, (think we made it back around 5 pm after stopping in Prineville for some dinner) we read again about getting to the Mt. Sutton hike. Apparently there was a gate and no markings of a parking lot so all 7 of us trying to hike Sutton were in the WRONG PLACE! We’re planning on going out again in search of this mysterious place thinking the actual hike will be a lot easier than what we did today.

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Australia Observations

1.A lot of slang:

Sangas – sandwiches
Knock backs – ?
Tazzy – Tasmania
Brizzy – Brisbane
Scrummy – yummy
Scrolls – cinnamon “rolls”
Capsicum – bell pepper
Leads – leash
Maccas – McDonald’s
Woolies – Woolworths
Sultana – raisin
Nosey about – look around
Surcharge – tax
Chilly bin – cooler

2. Young and old, many walk around barefoot

3. I’m not sure if this is everywhere but in a lot of residential areas people speed (some do not have low 20 mph speed limits like the US)

4. Early 2000s music plays everywhere… Smashmouth and Sugar Ray…

5. No street food… I heard it exists in Melbourne only. Sad!

6. It’s hot and humid. Unbelievably. AC mucho necessito

7. People are all around pretty friendly and helpful —

8. I see a lot of those strange truck-car hybrids. I wonder why those are so popular here?!

9. Warm nights and amazing sunsets!

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RTW So Far!

About a month and a half in and here is where we’ve been:

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1. Las Vegas
2. Cancun, Mexico
3. Havana, Cuba
(Viñales/Central Havana)
4. Cancun, Mexico
5. Tulum, Mexico
6. Chetumal, Mexico
(Belize City)
7. Flores, Guatemala
8. Tikal, Guatemala
9. Antigua, Guatemala
10. Orlando, Fl //DISNEYWORLD
11. Chicago, IL

Just uploaded a few clips of Chicago–

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Cuba in Summary

Not for the feint of heart.
An assault on all the senses at once.

SIGHT

The most vibrant streets: pastel 17th and 18th century architecture, rainbow assorted shades of classic old American cars, the neon/floral print mix and match fashions of the local Cubans and tourists alike are dazzling. However, everything is in ruin and not in any state of repair— Walls crumbling, layers of paint, graffiti, dirt and grime on every surface. Trees grow big and tall on the side of buildings, one thing that has weathered time better here. Bars on windows, artistic iron wrought gates are on almost every home. Stray dogs and cats run around licking trash for snack while they wait for scraps from the local butcher. Clothes strung up on balconies, colorful pantalones flapping in the wind.

SOUND

As we head down three flights of stairs the din grows louder. You’d think it was a cliché but as soon as the heavy door was parted from its latch, and we’ve just barely stepped outside, a blasting of live Cuban-Caribbean music makes it almost impossible to converse. Add the large trucks zooming by, pedicabs ringing their bells simultaneously yelling, “Taxi? Taxi!” toward us while we try to avoid them. Different music is being played from a shoulder boombox or performed on every corner, whether from within a restaurant or street urchin hoping to earn some pesos. Someone on the 3rd floor is yelling at a friend on the street. The guy in the 2nd floor restaurant is beckoning us up to eat. A man is calling to a stray dog down the road who is running further away. Kids are playing or screaming. Near the main square, a man in a typical black and white waiters outfit stands in the doorway asking in Spanish if we want cigars. It is starting to rain: no. Everybody seems to know everybody.

SMELL

The streets are busy. Rotting garbage from remains thrown carelessly on the ground, next to feces (stray dog, cat, human?) mix with open sewer lines, baked dumpsters overflowing everywhere. Males do not use restrooms— they just pick any which side of the street and go. Cheap ladies fragrance is sometimes wafted into the mix, a welcome scent from the general leaded gasoline fumes, black plumes pouring out of all the motor vehicles. Cigar smoke lingers, locals and even those working have them lit throughout the day. Pockets of lovely food smells cooking from cafeteria restaurant institutions make for a treat. Little peso pizzas are folded like sandwiches in hand of many locals going about their day… Tempting.

TOUCH

Rubble and uneven streets leave the ankles tested; not being able to walk on one side of the other, sidewalk or road because the holes where the “street” has been ripped up, dug into and never put back is unavoidable. We left our first home for three days, came back and it was hardly recognizable. Sidewalk: gone. Road: also gone a few feet. Two foot deep holes for 30 feet along the path we used to walk. There are also too many piles of crap or large dirty puddles of stagnant water that are a hypochondriacs nightmare. Also: crazy drivers and swaying walkers. The potholes are so large Im surprised cars aren’t stuck in them. If you aren’t paying attention there might be a three foot drop next to a so called sidewalk. Humidity is a sneak that leaves your skin sticky and hair frizzed. Mosquitos here are another breed— Their bite a lasting remark for days to come.

TASTE

Nothing here is easy to come by. Food being rationed, is an obvious reason. The fare doesn’t taste bad, it is very simple and basic in composition. Jamon. HAM HAM and more HAM. Bread. Flavors are light, almost bland for my palette that likes a spicy factor. Our host graciously made us an “omelette” which was nothing more than a scrambled egg folded in half, no seasonings or additions. Before we left on the trip my bf had to wonder if my spicy addiction had gone too far. Now he sees why I brought the hot sauce and chili pepper packets! Little did I know that I would in hindsight be thankful for a plain egg… Good protein is hard to come by. Our first mojito was also an experience: it was straight rum with a mint twig dashed in it. I watched the “bartender” pour in horror. Most street snacks and menu items are fried— churros, croquettes, tostones, plantains, sugared chips, corn fritters etc. Things that are somewhat available here in grocery “mercados” include: bread, ham, crackers, Kool Aid, Havana Gold rum, unpasteurized dairy products and long lines. I’m not leaving anything out either, not sure how people live off of these items. No spices, sugar, cereal, chips, frozen aisle… These shops are smaller than the average American’s dining room. I didn’t come here for the food but one pleasant surprise was the Chocolate Museum bonbons, which was probably the closest to normal thing I’ve eaten here. One was milk chocolate in the shape of a cigar, a mint liqueur filled milk chocolate, and a praline cinnamon clove mix covered in bittersweet chocolate. Mmmm.

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One Night in Cuba

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Imagine you have just landed in Havana— an hour later than scheduled, pissed off an immigrations officer, managed to find your way out of the airport, exchanged some money (although the teller has to recount a hundred dollar bill and 3 twenties about a thousand times) and thankfully run into your taxi driver who was late as well. It takes a half hour to get to your residence because the driver sees his “boss” who must be picked up and dropped off in some random spot on the side of the road. The airport is actually in the middle of nowhere so it takes and a bit to get home— once arrived you are given the rundown and settle in. The host hands you a keyring with 6 keys. One for the door to get into the “complex”, one for the gate into two possible apartments, one for the iron gate before the front door, the key for the heavy front door, the key for your bedroom door and yet another key for the closet in the bedroom. Is this Cuba or Fort Knox.

By now you are very hungry and thirsty. Starving, perhaps. You get to the market and find out they have no water because it has already sold out for the day. Tap water is totally unsuitable for drinking. You decide to look around down the street for more options. Most mercados are already closed as it is a pretty late hour. You pass by many restaurants, so busy and bustling— live music draws all the tourists leaving hardly any standing room. A few restaurants are open and actually have seating. After reading menus posted outside you finally come to a consensus of where first to try. When you find your table, it takes ten minutes before anyone comes to give you a menu. Once you have your menu it takes another fifteen to twenty minutes for anyone to come back to take your order, even after trying to wave someone down and catch their attention. Now you’ve finally decided on some basic (everything is basic) chicken dish, but after placing the order are told that nothing on the menu is left (sold out due to rations being all used up). But hold on, the last two things on the menu are available: a seafood paella and lobster.

These are notoriously the most expensive, meats in general in Cuba… but you also want to dodge food poisoning. This information would have been nice to know before sitting down and wasting 45 minutes all the while starving. SO you decide to do the only natural thing which is to order drinks. The waiter then informs that you must be seated at the bar. The table is right next to the bar and no one under 25 is even in the restaurant as it is 11 pm, and in Cuba no one cares what age you are drinking anyways… but okay. Move to the empty bar and wait ten minutes for the somehow busy bartender to notice. We place an order for a beer and a mojito. I’m not sure how time consuming it is to grab a beer and a clean glass but it must be on the upside of fifteen minutes. The mojito was nothing more than a squirt of lime juice, cup 98% full with rum and a mint twig thrown in. Not exactly what was imagined. Good thing it was only $1.50 as it was not exactly palatable.

Looking around you see waiters, employees of this restaurant standing around doing a whole lot of nothing. You’d imagine that if the restaurant was concerned about profits they would at least be utilizing the oodles of people with no real job description and be prompt in delivering the check. It doesn’t even need any preparation and they already have it from the paper they took your order on. You want to leave and think you can get the hell out of there ASAP, but alas, another wrong assumption. The bartender is too busy (???), and three non waiter waiters sitting at the end of the bar near what appears to be a register just chatting and looking around but avoiding actually doing anything. The two waiters who take orders and deliver food are walking around so fast you can’t even catch their eye. So going along with the theme of the night, and now I know, Cuba in general— It takes twenty minutes to get your check. Tempting to dine and dash, or leave money on the counter and dash but you don’t know what kind of impression that may have— being completely new to this country.

Somehow it’s close to midnight now so you decide to find your way back to the apartment. Still starving you eat some health bars you brought from America; on the way over they got smashed into tiny granola bits so you scoop it directly out of a gallon sized ziplock (that was fun for customs) with a titanium spork into your mouth. That’s all the food you have left because the fine gents of customs were so suspicious of your Costco Korean beef jerky that they threw it away.

Welcome to Cuba.

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LangBaan

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The food was epically good… as is {exponentially} inversely proportional to how my photos turned out.
I figured that I would start by showing some professional photos of the food to give the right impression.

But first… It is important to know how we arrived here.

That afternoon I was lunching with a friend… we had each ordered a pizza and were eating our slices out of the box.
I was hungry enough and figured I had nothing to lose so I’d polish of the entire thing. As I’m licking my fingers clean I notice my cell phone has been lighting up with more and more messages.

“This might be an emergency,” I thought.

[Haha] Quickly scanning the texts I realized that we had gotten some last minute reservations for a pretty desired place: LangBaan, we already had some for a few months later, but this was TONIGHT, and the menu changes every month, so why not?
Oh yes, remember THAT ENTIRE PIZZA I ATE and LangBaan is known for their 12 COURSE MEALS!
Just lovely timing, good thing I am always down to eat and the meal wasn’t to start until 8:30 that night.

The place we arrived at was not labeled LangBaan, but Paddee. We got there a bit early to sample some libations
at the bar while we waited to be shown the secret spot.
Our favorite drink was called the Waterfall—
it reminded me of a sweeter, alcoholic version of the juice from a cucumber kim chee dish my mom makes.
Not too sweet which is just how I like it, a bit of citrus, some tang from the drinking vinegars. Easy to have a few!

8:30 rolled around and a small group of us (a limit of 20 seats) were taken through a hidden grey bookshelf door. A cozy seating area was set up with its own little kitchen where the chef was in plain view.

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These pictures obviously do no justice to the artistry of the meal. As a whole I could not imagine a more cohesive twelve courses. Two and a half hours later we were almost finished. The last bit we ended with was two “desserts”. I’m using quotations because one was a dessert soup (a sweet gingery broth with a little mochi ball in it… a sweet ozoni?) Yes, this is exotic Thai food, not Japanese but I am making connections here. The last plate was some kind of tapioca shooter. Considering this is the portion size for two grown adults I got angry. They were so good, but much like a fading memory– one great bite, hard to savor… what exactly did I eat? I need MORE MORE, as in a whole bowl [of the tapioca stuff]. Time. To take my time and figure out all the layers. It was almost anxiety. I’ve joked before about storming kitchens to get exactly what I’m looking for, but in this case I could see straight into where these miniatures had been made and they were already cleaning up. After this month the dish would cease to exist anywhere. Beautiful concept. Expensive to devour. A romantic and exciting place for two with adventurous palates. Left wanting more. Left wondering about next month!

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48. Teote

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Sunday.
Beautiful day to check a thing or two off of my list.

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Thanks to my Venezuelan friend Daniella who was adamant that I try some of the cuisine from her homeland–
I’ve been twice and have not been disappointed! The drinks above: Palomas, lovely to drink on a balmy summer day when you want something light and fresh.
The bowls were full of shredded marinated meat, cheesy, and decently spicy. The polenta cakes were fun to eat with as well.

Teote Areperia
1615 SE 12th Ave
Portland, OR 97214

(971) 888-5281

www.teotepdx.com

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